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The Munich Kaffeeklatsch

5. To the Lenbachhaus: An artist's palace

Wednesday November 1, 2017

I read that in the Lenbachhaus, a large municipal museum, an exhibiton of the works of Gabriele Münter (1877-1962) had just opened. Münter was a German expressionist painter and exceptional woman, probably never given due recognition in her day. I was eager to see this unique collection of her work, some of which had never been on display anywhere previously.

Hoping to avoid the crowds, we were there when the Lenbachhaus opened. But there were already lines waiting to buy tickets and we figured most people were headed for the Münter exhibition. It was a holiday and it seemed everyone had the same idea - to come early to beat the crowds. We decided to come back for Gabriele Münter another day, but since we were there we could visit other parts of the museum.
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Setting out - Warning, Surface damage on bike path
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Many waiting to buy tickets - we didn't beat the crowds
The building itself has an interesting history. The Lenbachhaus website is well done and in English if you are interested in more information. I picked out a few details and included them here.

The Lenbach Villa was the private residence of Franz von Lenbach (1836-1904), a celebrated portraitist. As an outward reflection of his great artistic and financial success, he built a magnificent villa. Residential and representative rooms as well as the studio and gallery wing were lavishly decorated in various historic styles. To heighten the effect, the rooms were kept semi-dark so that everything was bathed in an atmosphere of mystery. Lenbach’s home was also one of the most modern in Munich: it had electric light throughout and featured steam heating, a bathroom, and a photo studio.
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Bust of Franz von Lenbach
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"I intend to build a palace that will overshadow what has been before; in these rooms the powerful centers of European great art should be connected with the present. " Franz von Lenbach 1885
We got our tickets after a short wait and had a look at a section of the museum which shows some of the original rooms where Lenbach and his family resided. The rooms were decorated lavishly and kept dark to add an atmosphere of mystery. (Dark, hmmm. Of course no flash or tripod allowed.)
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On the ground floor
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From inside looking out to the garden
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The reconstructed historic rooms in the former residence are devoted to Lenbach’s art and the atmosphere he created in his home.
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The presentation features an extensive selection of works from his art collection, the villa’s original interiors, and Lenbach’s own paintings.
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The original furnishings included copies of objects such as antique reliefs when originals could not be had.
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Lenbach - Self portrait (1902)
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Lenbach with wife and daughters (1902/3)
We could easily have spent much more time here. The Lenbachhaus collects, conserves, studies, and presents the art of the nineteenth century, the Blauer Reiter, the New Objectivity, as well as international contemporary art. But we will be back.

Cafe Ella was added on to the museum when it was renovated not many years ago. They have great cake, good coffee and a tempting breakfast menu. We decided to forfeit lunch today and go for a second breakfast.
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Selfie in the window of the Lenbachhaus Cafe Ella - Behind me in the reflection is the Königsplatz with the Glyptothek.
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The cafe was a great discovery, many nice little breakfast goodies on the menu.

This visit was an enjoyable discovery. I had been to the museum often, mainly to see the pictures from the Blauer Reiter. "The Lenbachhaus has the world’s largest collection of art of »Der Blaue Reiter« (The Blue Rider), one of the most important groups of avant-garde artists in the early twentieth century." But I knew absolutely nothing about Lenbach and had hardly looked at the historic rooms.

It was writing about my rides for the challenge that got me to look a little more closely.
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  • Home
  • Bicycle Tours
    • 2021 >
      • Autumn in the Allgäu
      • Austria Again
      • A Dip into Tyrol
      • Wertheim and Beyond
      • We got as far as Wertheim
      • Bavarian Getaways
    • 2020 >
      • Out and About in Bavaria >
        • Day 1: Gauting - Bad Tölz
        • Day 2: Bad Tölz - Bad Kohlgrub
        • Day 3: Bad Kohlgrub - Landsberg
        • Day 4: Landsberg - Gauting
    • 2019 >
      • The Season Has Begun
      • Pedaling and Shooting in Bavaria >
        • Day 1
        • Day 2
      • More Pedaling in Bavaria >
        • Day 1
        • Day 2
      • Cycling the Inn in Austria >
        • Day 1 Gautig to Tölz
        • Day 2 Tölz to Jenbach
        • Day 3 Jenbach to Innsbruck
        • Day 4 Innsbruck to Rietz
        • Day 5 Rietz to Landeck
        • Day 6 Landeck and Home
    • 2018 >
      • A Two Day Outing
      • A nine-day tour in Lower Bavaria >
        • Day 1
        • Day 2
        • Day 3
        • Day 4
        • Day 5
        • Day 6
        • Day 7
        • Day 8
        • Day 9
      • The Romantic Road >
        • Day 1 - Füssen to Peiting
        • Day 2 - Peiting to Klosterlechfeld
        • Day 3 - Kosterlechfeld to Gersthofen
        • Day 4 - Gersthofen to Donauwörth
        • Day 5 - Train Ride Home
      • Continuing on the Romantic Road >
        • Day 1 - Donauwörth to Raustetten
        • Day 2 - Raustetten to Dorfgütingen
        • Day 3 - Dorfgütingen to Creglingen
        • Day 4 - Creglingen to Hochhausen
        • Day 5: Hochhausen to Uettingen
        • Day 6 - Uettingen to Würzburg
      • Alpe-Adria Tour 2018 >
        • 1. Alsace or the Alps?
        • 2. We're Off: Munich to Bruckmühl
        • 3. Mountains Aready? Bruckmühl to Übersee
        • 4. Almost Salzburg: Übersee to Freilassing
        • 5. On the Ciclovia Alpe-Adria: Freilassing to Golling
        • 6. A Short Ride: Golling to Werfen
        • 7. A Patch of Blue Sky: Werfen to Sankt Veit
        • 8. Holed up in Sankt Veit
        • 9. The Big Climb: Sankt Veit to Unterkolbnitz
        • 10. Inching Our Way: Kolbnitz to Spittal
        • 11. Flat and Dry: Spittal to Arnoldstein
        • 12. Buongiorno Bella Italia: Arnoldstein to Chiusaforte
        • 13. Best Bike Path Ever: Chiusaforte to Tavagnacco
        • 14. Closer to the Sea: Tavagnacco to Palmanova
        • 15. Last Day on the Road: Palmanova to Grado
        • 16. Grado and How We Got Home
    • 2016 >
      • To Berlin and Beyond
    • 2013 >
      • Eight Wheels in Transit
    • 2011 >
      • From Passau to Vienna
    • 2010, 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006
  • Day Rides
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    • 2019 Rides >
      • Bicycle Days 2019
    • 2018 Rides >
      • Bicycle Days 2018
      • 2018 Monthly Challenges
      • Cycling in Circles
    • 2017 Rides and Challenges >
      • Late to the Party
      • The Munich Kaffeeklatsch
  • Bicycle Memories
    • 1981: Bicycling with Daniel
    • 1981 - Passau to Vienna
    • 1982 - Provence with Daniel
    • 1985: Believe It or Not
    • 1986 - Southwest France
  • About
  • Contact
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    • Hochbunkers in Munich