Where to?
When Yugoslavia, Czechoslovakia and the USSR ceased to exist, new nations came into being that I can hardly identify on a map. Many are now becoming members of the European Union as it expands its borders to the east. I know little about our new fellow members in the European Union, I don't know what they are like today nor am I familiar with their history.
Long before the EU existed, much of eastern Europe was under the rule of the Habsburg Monarchy, from 1867 to 1918 known as Austria-Hungary, which included the present nations of Austria, Hungary, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, parts of Romania, Montenegro, Poland, Ukraine, Italy and Serbia.
Long before the EU existed, much of eastern Europe was under the rule of the Habsburg Monarchy, from 1867 to 1918 known as Austria-Hungary, which included the present nations of Austria, Hungary, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, parts of Romania, Montenegro, Poland, Ukraine, Italy and Serbia.
Austria-Hungary before WWI
History was never my strong point. I always had problems with this subject in school, it never came alive for me and I immediately forgot all the facts I had crammed for exams. Traveling by bike has helped - language, architecture, the country's borders and historical landmarks can be experienced.
Now it's time to see more of the European Union and also find out what the Habsburg Empire was all about.
Now it's time to see more of the European Union and also find out what the Habsburg Empire was all about.
A loop starting in Munich and heading south: a very approximate notion of our tour
For me a trip needs some kind of motivation. I find it demoralizing to cycle without a goal of some sort. So now we want at least to set a foot, or roll a wheel, in all the countries which constituted the former Habsburg Empire. We might end up making compromises or stop short of our goal, that's okay. But to start we need something that says, first you go south, then east ... In other words, a tour through history is our theme.
On every tour we learn - I hope - what we could to do better next time. This time around we want to take more detours, spend more time where it's interesting, not take the shortest route from A to B and keep going the next day. We're not in a hurry any more, we're retired, but sometimes we forget that.
On every tour we learn - I hope - what we could to do better next time. This time around we want to take more detours, spend more time where it's interesting, not take the shortest route from A to B and keep going the next day. We're not in a hurry any more, we're retired, but sometimes we forget that.
Of the 12 countries we will cycle through, nine are members of the European Union; Serbia, Croatia and Ukraine are on the waiting list.
Our Route
Some things I scratch off my list because I've already done them, the Danube Bike Path for example. That's why we're cycling east along the Drava and not the Danube. For some years now the valley of the Drava through Austria to Slovenia has been on my list of places I want to cycle. This will take us to Maribor in Slovenia, not a bad start. On our way back, having had our fill of mountains, we might follow the Danube from Budapest to Vienna - if we ever get that far. But then who knows what shape our plans will take along the way.
To get to the source of the Drava we must first cross the Alps over the Brenner Pass. I have already done that, and just because I have done it before, I want to do it again, or perhaps prove that I can still do it. I was 25 years younger then, but now I have a better bike. I'm not sure the Brenner is a good idea, there's a lot of traffic, but I have made up my mind to do it and have found a nice description of the route with maps and information on hotels, camping grounds etc.
To get to the source of the Drava we must first cross the Alps over the Brenner Pass. I have already done that, and just because I have done it before, I want to do it again, or perhaps prove that I can still do it. I was 25 years younger then, but now I have a better bike. I'm not sure the Brenner is a good idea, there's a lot of traffic, but I have made up my mind to do it and have found a nice description of the route with maps and information on hotels, camping grounds etc.
Cycling guide: From Munich to Verona via Achensee, Inn Valley, Brenner, Etsch Valley, Lake Garda
The Drava Valley or Drautal in German is said to have sensational views of the mountains and I'm looking forward to it. There is a sign-posted bike route from the source of the Drava to Maribor and a good bike-guide with detailed maps and information is available.
Cycling guide: Following the Drava from its source to Maribor/Slovenia
Last Minute Mishap
Just a little stiffness in my knee the past few weeks, something I felt I could ignore. This is not a time for knee problems. And for the upcoming touring plans, I reminded myself that pedaling is the best therapy for knees. But this morning on my way down the stairs - not running, not skipping steps, not doing anything out of the ordinary - a sharp pain shot through my knee and that was it.
The result was I couldn't walk, it was so painful. I had set aside the last three days before the trip to run all sort of last minute errands and prepare for being away for three months, but then found myself hobbling around on two crutches with no prospect of whizzing along on two wheels the day after tomorrow. The crutches were in the cellar. My husband had hoped he wouldn't need them again since his total knee replacement was such a success, but we kept them anyway. I never expected that I would be the next one to use them.
I've been to the doctor's, and now can do little more than wait to see how effective his treatment will be. I am keeping my fingers crossed that I'll be feeling fine in six days time, when we hope to set out.
The result was I couldn't walk, it was so painful. I had set aside the last three days before the trip to run all sort of last minute errands and prepare for being away for three months, but then found myself hobbling around on two crutches with no prospect of whizzing along on two wheels the day after tomorrow. The crutches were in the cellar. My husband had hoped he wouldn't need them again since his total knee replacement was such a success, but we kept them anyway. I never expected that I would be the next one to use them.
I've been to the doctor's, and now can do little more than wait to see how effective his treatment will be. I am keeping my fingers crossed that I'll be feeling fine in six days time, when we hope to set out.
Piles of stuff waiting to be packed in my panniers, but there's no rush now. Crutches weren't supposed to be part of the picture.
I now have time to fool around with trivia. Like putting in the weather forecast for our planned date of departure. Originally we wanted to leave today - the sun is shining and the wind favorable. It's just the knee, it's not ready quite yet. Monday is a holiday and to avoid the extra traffic we have decided Tuesday is the earliest we can embark on our great adventure - provided the old knee agrees.
Beautiful weather today, but we're not leaving.
Terrible weather on Tuesday, envisioned day of departure.
But we're not off on Tuesday and our rain gear isn't equal the tempestuous weather we're having. Instead we're sitting tight at home and watching the wind lash the trees and the rain pelt down unremittingly. Only fools would voluntarily start out on a cycling tour under such conditions. We are anxious to be on our way, but under such circumstances the comforts of home are not to be underestimated and definitely to be preferred to finding refuge in a hotel along the way.
We've become obsessed with the weather forecast in the Internet, but read them as often as we may, it doesn't change anything. And they are not entirely accurate - today is much colder than predicted. No decent weather is in the offing. It doesn't have to be perfect for us to set out, just not what we are having now.
My knee is fine, by the way.
We've become obsessed with the weather forecast in the Internet, but read them as often as we may, it doesn't change anything. And they are not entirely accurate - today is much colder than predicted. No decent weather is in the offing. It doesn't have to be perfect for us to set out, just not what we are having now.
My knee is fine, by the way.
Weather report from the kitchen window
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