On the Romantic Road from Raustetten to Dorfgütingen
Tuesday June 19, 2018
Raustetten, where we just spent the night, is a very small village. I could hardly believe there would be a hotel here. In German they say it's a place "wo Fuchs und Hase sich gute Nacht sagen", where the fox and the hare wish each other good night. Miles from nowhere, or at least that's the way it feels. Actually it's not far from Fremdingen, a real little town. And if we had taken the bikepath via Fremdingen yesterday, we might have spared ourselves the final stony path here. Sometimes the planned routes aren't quite perfect.
The day starts out cool and gradually warms up, same as yesterday. We also have strong headwinds, same as yesterday. Today we have fewer unpaved sections, an improvement over yesterday. And we see some more storks on rooftops and in the fields.
I love the rolling countryside we are cycling through. It's not dramatic and I might just have a lot of photos that look very much the same: hills, fields, bicycles, sky with clouds, then more fields and another shot of our bicycles.
I love the rolling countryside we are cycling through. It's not dramatic and I might just have a lot of photos that look very much the same: hills, fields, bicycles, sky with clouds, then more fields and another shot of our bicycles.
At one point our route crosses a road under construction and not yet open to traffic. Such a temptation - pefect smooth asphalt and no cars. Ever the optimists, we decide to give it a try. Oh how lovely to sail along on a bran new road and have it all to yourself. Except it ended abruptly. We have the choice to either backtrack or push our bikes down an embankment of loose soil. Nobody wants to backtrack and Janos can help me with my bike. There is another road down there, and we even see a bicycle path going in the right direction.
Today we pass through Dinkelsbühl, after Rothenburg probably the most popular of the picturesque towns on the Romantic Road. It is studded with historic half-timbered houses, painted in fresh, bright colors. And it's a tourist magnet.
For the next 15 km our path basically follows the Wörnitz through pretty countryside until we reach Feuchtwangen where again it is worthwhile to take a break and have a look around.
From Feuchtwangen it's eight km to our destination. We cross over to the other side of the Wörnitz on small paths and are then on a quiet road across the fields. We finally hit a short stretch of dirt path before we reach Dorfgütingen. Again, we are staying in a place that is little more than a group of houses, hard to call it a town. It has a church, a heavily trafficked road runs through and that's about it. We had booked in advance, and I chose this hotel because it seemed to be at about the right distance for a day's ride. I didn't consider the possibility that there would be no place to eat in Dorfgütingen.
Our hotel looks a little shabby, its restaurant is closed. Fortulnately, our hotelier is not only friendly but also helpful. We are thankful that he is able to organize a small meal of bread, cheese and cold cuts for us. He also has cold beer.
He is amazed that we are traveling by bike. Although we are only a few kilometers distant from the official bicycle path where in the summer hundreds if not thousands of fully loaded bicycle tourists pass through, this form of travel is foreign to him. I wonder how he can have missed it. Obviously, few cyclists leave the beaten track, and our hotelier probably doesn't leave Dorfgütingen very often either.
He is amazed that we are traveling by bike. Although we are only a few kilometers distant from the official bicycle path where in the summer hundreds if not thousands of fully loaded bicycle tourists pass through, this form of travel is foreign to him. I wonder how he can have missed it. Obviously, few cyclists leave the beaten track, and our hotelier probably doesn't leave Dorfgütingen very often either.