Day 4 - Regensburg to Reibersdorf
Monday April 30, 2018
It looks like a sorry day as we step outside of our hotel. It's cold, overcast and windy. But when we discover that it's a tailwind and see it isn't raining, we are reconciled.
Leaving town, we cross Regenburg's Stone Bridge (Steinerne Brücke) a 12th-century bridge across the Danube - but first we have to take a picture of it.
There is a legend that the bridge builder and the cathedral builder (who were apprentice and master) had a bet as to who would finish first. When the building of the cathedral progressed faster than that of the bridge, the bridge builder made a pact with the Devil: the Devil would aid him in exchange for the first three souls (or the first eight feet) to cross the bridge. The Devil helped as requested, and the bridge was finished first. But the bridge builder sent a rooster, a hen and a dog across the bridge first. Enraged, the Devil attempted to destroy the bridge, but failed, but that is why it is bent. In fact the bridge was already complete when construction began on the cathedral in 1273.
The bridge and the cathedral are the two major emblems of the city. In 2008 the bridge was closed to all motorized traffic and became a pedestrian and bicycle bridge.
As we ride it gets chillier and a few drops of rain fall. I put on all my layers - a shortsleeve jersey, a longsleeve jersery, a fleece jacket, a scarf, a rainjacket, long cycling pants, cycling gloves with wool gloves on top - and I feel just right. The path is smooth asphalt through pretty meadows and fields. Here and there we see a church spire in the distance.
Cool and grey but we have a helpful tailwind.
The frame of my bike, as is everything else, is covered with pollen from the birch trees. I'm glad I'm not allergic. I also see that I have a stowaway.
Our bicycles against a dark sky
At around kilometer 30 we approach Wörth and decide to leave the path and have a look at the small town. Just about then it starts to rain, first a few drops and then it pours. Within ten minutes we have reached the edge of town and are already drenched. First thing we see is a bakery with cafe where we take refuge and wait out the rain with a coffee for Janos, peppermint tea for me and sandwiches for the two of us. Soon it stops raining and we are again on our way.
The pedaling warms us up and eventually the clouds move on and the sun comes out. Every once in a while we have stretches of gravel paths and I do my best not to be intimidated. I concentrate on improving my gravel grinding skills.
We leave the bad weather behind us in the west as we travel east.
Everything is prettier in the sun.
Janos waits.
Another bridge across the Danube
A bridge with a BONG (hard to see behind the grass). Was the Fearless Mr. Bing Bong here?
We arrive in Reibersdorf around 4:30. Gasthof Winkelmeier, a hotel with restaurant and beer garden, isn't hard to find. It's on the main drag and there's not much else to the town. Our room is small, but not as small as yesterday's. We eat in the beer garden. Although it's quite cool, the beer garden is full and almost everyone is sitting around in short sleeves. I don't get it. We considered sitting inside except it was empty and looked a little gloomy and forelorn.
Beer garden Winkelmeier, taken the next morning, with its lovely horse chestnut trees in full bloom
Before we go to bed we do a bit of laundry.