It's a Long Way

And it's been a long time since I wrote. Sixteen days ago we left Munich for our temporary winter escape in southern Spain. Yes, it's a long way from Munich to Conil de la Frontera where we are now. Our 13-day drive took us through some familiar places, some new places - all interesting and worth visiting. I'm afraid I am not going to be able to recapitulate our trip in any detail - I do wish I had written my blog while traveling. So here goes for a short summary with some of the many pictures I took along the way.

November 21, 2018
Munich to Freiburg

I look at my handwritten notes from this day and wonder if any of it is worth recording. What time it was when we left, where we had lunch, what I forgot to pack, what Janos forgot to pack and we had to replace, what our hotel was like ... So many details that make up the course of a day on the road and interesting at the time, but perhaps not very important in the overall view.

You might be wondering what we forgot. We had to buy a new electric toothbrush because I forgot the charger and I am definitely dependent on my e-toothbrush. Janos forgot to bring any pyjamas. We fortunately were able to buy something in his size in Freiburg where we spent our first night. It was a short ride to Freiburg but it fit into the overall planning of the first few days - after that there was no set plan.

So that was our first day of our car trip, just driving. We haven't taken many car trips in the past few years. I like bicycle travel better but it would be unrealistic to want to cycle the 3,000 km for a winter holiday in Spain, wouldn't it?

Sitting in the car all day.

November 22, 2018
Freiburg to Pérouges

Originally, we intended to stop in Seysell in France for our second night. I had fond memories of the town because we had stopped there many years ago on our first really long bicycle tour. We were elated that we had made it through Switzerland and were now approaching the Rhone Valley - and the little restaurant in Seysell served a memorable meal. But now when we were about to book a room in the very same hotel we stayed at 12 years ago, we saw that the restaurant would be closed on that day. Otherwise the town wasn't of interest so we chose Pérouges, a medieval town of historic interest for the second night.

Today the roads were crowded, heavy traffic, sometimes not moving at all. And again a day of forgetfulness - I misplaced things, words as well, Janos forgot his winter coat in the hotel in Freiburg. He will have to have it sent to our address in Conil.

In Pérouges our hotel was up a steep cobbled road on the edge of the old town. We decided not to be lazy and before dinner took a walk with our tripods to capture the sights by night. We often chose hotels on this trip that were in or near the center of town. They were sometimes hard to access by car but it was well worth the trouble since we were then within walking distance of the sights. 

Morning in Freiburg - Market is being set up on the square around the cathedral.

Detail from Freiburg's cathedral, one of the great masterpieces of Gothic art in Germany.

Pérouges by night and full moon

November 23, 2018
Pérouges to Monistrol d'Allier

We set St. Privat d'Allier as our goal for today. That's where Janos and I met 21 years ago when we were on the Chemin de St. Jacques. Ah, memories. Unfortunately, at this time of year no hotels were open in this village. It opens its doors when the pilgrims come and otherwise is a ghost town. We walked the streets though, in the rain and drizzle, and found a room in the next town, Monistrol. Also a god forsaken place in late November.

But I mustn't forget to mention that we stopped in Le Puy for lunch. It was pouring rain and we were hungry. We found a place to park the car and made a dash for the closest place that offered something to eat. We were in luck. It was a fantastic meal for a very moderate price. But the rich dessert that I couldn't resist did me in. I spent a dreadful night with indigestion. Will I ever learn?

In the morning, we explore Pérouges a little more before we hit the road.

The Pilgrims' Way in France, Chemin de St. Jacques, passes through St. Privat and is where Janos and I first met.

Here we are 21 years later - who woulda thunk.

A rainy afternoon and warm memories in St. Privat

November 24, 2018
Monistrol d'Allier to Cahors

I already mentioned that it was a restless night for me due to my dessert indulgence on the day before. Add to that the narrow French bed with a sagging mattress. But the day turned out to be bright and we passed through some lovely scenery and were on small roads. Small and slow. It's pleasant driving on the backroads but you make no progress. The faster highways are crowded with lots of trucks and generally not a pleasure to drive.

Our window in Monistrol - all steamed up. The room was so cold we had the heat on all night.

Our pretty route as the mist burns off.

Wonderful vistas

We stop for a look at the Romanesque church in Chanaleilles.

November 25, 2018
Rest Day in Cahors

Time to take a day off from driving. We have a comfortable room in a hotel on the river Lot. We even have a view of the river from our room. Cahors is another place that you can spend a lot of time exploring. We did some walking in between rain showers.

Plane trees give the characteristic southern France feeling - even in the rain.

Cahors is on the Chemin de St. Jacques. Janos and I have been here together, too.

St. Etienne Cathedral

November 26, 2018
Cahors to Biarritz

Today is our last day in France, tomorrow Spain. We stop in Biarritz for the night, one of the most fashionable and elegant Atlantic holiday resorts in its day. Today it's still pretty classy, but in the off-season affordable. 

In many towns we parked in the public parking garages provided on the edge of the historic centers, and then walked to our hotel, our bags in tow. It is nice to see that so many European city centers are now banning car traffic. Biarritz was our first experience with underground public parking. Once we realized we wouldn't be able to drive up to our hotel, it was fine. Before we had caught on, we rode around in circles on narrow one-way streets, confused that they were not taking us to the address we entered on our GPS.

We checked in at our elegant belle epoque hotel and were on the promenade in time for a sunset, some more rain and later a walk in town, mainly in search of a restaurant. It seemed almost everything was closed on Monday.

New seafront buildings dominate over the older and more atmospheric architecture that I had been looking forward to.

Escaping the rain

Evening clouds in Biarritz

November 27, 2018
Biarritz to Burgos

Finding our way out of Biarritz was easier than finding our way in. We exited the public parking and followed the signs to Spain. There was no border, but when the roadside billboards were in Spanish, we knew we had crossed into another country.

When we arrived in Burgos, it didn't take us long to see that we had to steer for the closest underground parking and walk to our hotel from there. Hotel Norte y Londres was perhaps my favorite of the trip. It was charming and old - old radiators, old furniture, old bathroom installations, but all in good condition. The room was spacious as was the bathroom. It was also incredibly inexpensive, 40 Euros I believe.

The challenge of the evening was to find food before 9 p.m. We settled for tapas, and then some more tapas. I find Spanish eating hours difficult to adjust to - lunch from 2 to 4 and dinner starting at 9. That's my bedtime - almost.

I had been to Burgos before when walking the Camino de Santiago but hardly remembered a thing. This time around I loved the historic center - car free of course.

This is still Biarritz in the morning - view from our hotel window past the cathedral to the ocean.

Our hotel Norte y Londres in Burgos - with Camino walkers trying to decide where to stay. When we walked the Camina we, too, had come through Burgos with our big backpacks.

Avenida in Burgos with plane trees and gentlemen out for an afternoon walk

Detail from fountain next to the cathedral

Side entrance of the cathedral with Star of David over the door and in the rosette

November 28, 2018
Burgos to Segovia

On our way to Segovia we make a detour to visit Lerma, a lovely little town with steep cobbled streets to walk leading up to the main square.

We reach Segovia in the early afternoon, a beautiful city. Unfortunately, I forgot to put the memory card in my camera before we went out for our walk and have no pictures from the streets, the cathedral or the Alcázar. I was very sad when I discovered my mistake.

Streets of Lerma - characteristic of here much stone, no trees

Having a morning chat in Lerma - mostly elderly men walk with a cane. It seems to be a custom and is not necessarily related to a walking disability.

View from our window in Segovia - and last picture of the day. Segovia is set on a hill top in the wide open fields of Castille.

November 29, 2018
Segovia to Toledo

Before we leave Segovia, we stop for a look at its magnificent acqueduct,  which was one of the largest and best preserved in the Roman empire.

We make a stop in Ávila around noon. A cold wind is blowing and nothing is open for lunch so early in the day, but we admire as much as we can in our limited time there and take some pictures before we continue. Ávila would have deserved more time.

However, we do manage to find a spot to park our car and get a look at the city walls. Not an easy feat since parking is so limited. Cars are such a nuisance. However in this case a bicycle, even an e-bike, wouldn't make things too much easier on these narrow, steep and bumpy streets. As in the other Spanish cities we visited, to see the sights you need time and a good pair of walking shoes.

We continue on to Toledo through amazing countryside. The roads are smooth, the traffic is light, but there are almost no places to stop and get out of the car. We see the province of Castilla y León through the car window.

Segovia's acqueduct is overwhelming.

The Aqueduct of Segovia was built during the second half of the 1st century A.D. under the rule of the Roman Empire and up into the 20th century supplied water from the Frío River to the city.

Catedral de San Salvador - Ávila is sometimes called the Town of Stones and Saints.

Puerta de San Vicente, one of the nine entrance gates in the ancient wall enclosing Ávila's old town

The ancient walls, which still enclose the heart of Avila's old town, are the best preserved in Spain.

Through the car window

November 30, 2018
Toledo

There is plenty to see in Toledo, too. Instead of checking in and then rushing out to visit the city, we decide to spend another day here. We have alreay seen so many beautiful towns and cities, I am reaching my saturation point. I need more time to take in so many impressions.

Toledo is a wonderful, vibrant city but the highlight for us was its cathedral. We spent hours inside just looking and listening to our audio guides. It was spectacular.

View from our room in Toledo

Toledo's cathedral and narrow streets

Delivery vans and authorized vehicles vie with pedestrians for space on the streets.

Old shops

It was of course impossible to capture the dimensions or richness of the cathedral with the camera. The cathedral of Toledo is considered, in the opinion of some authorities, to be the magnum opus of the Gothic style in Spain.

The lovely cloister

December 1, 2018
Toledo to Córdoba

 We are getting close to our goal now, we are already in Andalusia and in just two more days and we will be in Conil. But first comes Córdoba where we will also stay two nights. I have been looking forward to seeing Córdoba for a long time. Before we embarked on this journey, I hadn't realized how amazing Burgos, Segovia and Toledo would be, otherwise I would have looked forward to them equally as much.

To break up a day of driving we detour to Baños de la Encina, high on a hill overlooking the Guadalquivir Valley and the site of the Moorish castle, Burgalimar, an impressive Arab fortress built in 970. Given its good condition, it is said to be one of the best Muslim fortresses in Europe. While I wander around taking pictures, we just miss the visiting hours. But the view from the grounds was possibly even more spectacular than the interior of the fortress.

We are experienced now at finding the right underground garage, and from there finding our way to the hotel. The streets of Córdoba are crowded, not with cars of course, no cars in the center, but with people out going about their business. Location location location - our hotel is directly opposite the Mezquita, Córdoba's Mosque-Cathedral, said to be the most important monument of the Western Islamic world.

Before we leave Toledo in the morning, I take a picture from the hotel rooftop.

Streets of Baños de la Encina

View of the Guadalquivir Valley, with olive groves as far as the eye can see, and in the distance the Spanish Sierra Nevada

The castle has an oval shape and fourteen square towers of equal height .

Finally in Córdoba, here is the view from out hotel window of the lovely walls of the Mezquita.

December 2, 2108
Córdoba

A few impressions from our day in Córdoba

Patio de los Naranjos - This lovely courtyard, with its orange, palm and cypress trees and fountains, forms the entrance to the Mezquita.

The Mezquita is most notable for its red-and-white colored giant arches resting on 856 columns.

Within the Mezquita, in the very center, is a Renaissance cathedral,. The cathedral’s construction lasted until the beginning of the 17th century. Although parts of the column hall were destroyed to build the cathedral, the building is still a remarkable example of fine Moorish architecture.

Towers of the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos - The Fortress of the Christian Monarchs, built in the 8th century

South view of the Mezquita's exterior

December 3, 2018
Last Day on the Road, First Day in Conil

Today is Monday, and the week is off to a good start. When we return to our car, which we assumed was safely parked in the public garage - public but not free, by the way - Janos discovered we had a flat tire. The garage attendants were helpful and for a few Euros willingly changed the tire. Glad we had a spare. It's the first time in decades that we have needed one.

We arrived in Conil in the early afternoon, picked up the keys to our apartment and moved in. End of our trip, beginning of our stay in Conil.

Helpful Spanish garage attendant solved our problem.

Indoor parking, not full in the morning. There is very little space allowed for manoeuvring, glad we have such a small car.

Our lovely view for the next five weeks.

First sunset of many to come